Wheel Assembly

The wheel will come with the right crank arm on backwards to reduce width. Loosen the setscrew, remove crank arm.

Remove spring

The shaft has a little grease on it. It should be greased occasionally.

Insert shaft in bearing

Place spring on shaft

Place crank arm on shaft and compress spring so that crank arm is flush with end or shaft. You can lay the wheel on its side to do this.

Tighten setscrew with provided allen wrench.

	The treadles are shipped on the shaft.
	Remove one nut.
	If there are two washers or spacers remove one. They should be on the shaft in the order they need to be on the wheel. If there is only one you will have to determine which side of the body it goes on.
	Insert the shaft in the leg with the body in place.
	Place the other washer on the shaft if there are two and the other treadle. Check to see if the treadles clear the crank assembly. If not move the spacer to the side that doesn’t clear.
	Screw on nut finger tight. Removal of the treadles and back leg can be done any time you want to carry the wheel in a small space.

Apply a small amount of oil to the flyer shaft where the bobbin rides.
The wheel is equipped with scotch tension. Guide the tension band on to the whorl of the bobbin.
Adjust with the knob. This is like the peg on a violin, a tapered shaft and hole. Apply a small amount of inward pressure when turning. If it gets too hard to turn wiggle it out to loosen. In general it is best to use as little tension as necessary to draw in the yarn. Excess tension can cause the drive wheel to slip causing excessive wear and black marks on the wheel. I have a bit about tension on the web site.
Place the flyer on the shaft.
Tighten the nut firmly. Loosen to remove.
If the chuck sticks on, press on the nut while pulling back on the flyer. Wiggle if necessary. It should quit sticking after some use.